Blue solid

Well, Curt gave me some good advice. Disconnect the blue video feed from the RGB card.

I did this via the internal connection – the wire between the blue CRT amp card and the RGB card. The blue indeed did go dark. I then swapped the blue to the green signal, which I knew was good. The blue was nice and solid. Then a swap back to the real blue — and again, solid. I suspect that one of the connectors was dirty and was causing trouble.

OR there is a possibility that my RGB card is intermittent or something. However, I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Right now it appears all systems go.

Zapped!

Well, I finally had time to swap some cards around. Found a few interesting things out.

Of the three CRT amplifier cards in my Ampro, 2 of them are Rev X1, and one of them is Rev B. Guess which was the ‘bad blue’? Yup, Rev B.

The new cards that Curt sent are both Rev X1 and seem to match my existing cards.

Along the way I manage to give myself a good zap when my finger slipped off the G2 control onto the pins on the back, effectively shorting the G2 control through my finger. Lesson learned.

I started by swapping the cards back, the Blue was again sort of funky. So I went ahead and tried the two new cards.

I didn’t check carefully before swapping things, but I believe my blue had settled down after the original swap I had done several weeks ago. However, now it seems to be unrelated to the CRT amplifier card(s) since I’ve tried three different ones now.

The ‘sparkly’ effect I had when adjusting the G2 control seems to have worked itself out. I have pretty stable G2 adjustment at this point — except for the blue.

Blue seems to never completely cut-off, it hits a point where it jumps up in brightness, and as you turn it down, it hits a low point where the tube is always sort of ‘floating’.

Running regular video material through it seems to give me a more stable ‘black’ — but with all three tubes cut -off, I still have an image that sort of ‘wavers’ on the blue. Almost like there is noise on the line.

I tried giving all the connections a good ‘jiggle’ to make sure they were solid and I wasn’t having issues with dirty contacts. Still no dice.

The random ‘blue’ lines are long gone now. This was the big problem as it was showing up in the projected image.

Of course my convergence is totally screwed (again). Oh yeah, and I posted an ECP vs. Ampro comparison photo in the gallery — check it out.

Replacement neck cards arrive!

Two potential replacement CRT Amplifier Cards arrived today (Thanks Curt!). I’m going to undo my blue/green swap and see if I still have the visible banding on blue and then try a new card to see if the G2 pot is a little cleaner. I’m confident that one of the two replacements will be fine.

I picked up a heavy duty power cord (14 guage) — it was $3 at the computer ‘dump’ so why not? I haven’t installed it yet, but I honestly don’t expect anything to change by swapping the power cord.

Overall the system seems to be getting more stable, I have some convergence drift happening but I keep friggin with things so its expected. I really need to re-do the full setup from the start.

Post swap

Well, after swapping the neck boards things do seem better. I’m getting some replacements boards sent to me and I’m going to see if they can address the dirty G2 POT.

The swap seems to have messed with my convergence a little. I tweaked things a bit after watching a movie and the system was warmed up.

I’m at a fairly high brightness/contrast (90/65) but apparently this is quite common with these units.

I also learned from AVSForum the distinction between ‘static’ and ‘dynamic’ setup on the Ampro. The static setup is once for the unit. Dynamic is per channel. So when you are prompted for ‘static’ choices, be aware that these are global changes. This should help me understand the manual(s) a little better.