My 6 year old built the kit with me, and you can see we also had some extra help. You’ll note the use of safety goggles was mandatory.

Aside from the contents of the kit, we needed a soldering iron, solder, cutters, 3rd hand and of course goggles. The web based directions for the kit are very detailed and cover all you need to know. They suggest a multi-meter but I didn’t find I needed one.

My daughter handled the soldering iron but I was the one with the solder. This tag team worked well for most of the kit. Later in the build I took over some of the fiddly bits (the 555 timer and speaker).

Below is the final build picture. It took about an hour start to finish. The Drawdrio doesn’t need to be used with a pencil, you can optionally wire it into a lot of different things. Beyond being an easy starter project to put together – it’s a great way to teach electrical conductivity concepts.

A few tips. You’ll want to make sure the battery you use has a full charge. Be patient with getting a drawing to make noise, you’ll find you need a very dark line to make it start playing. Once started, it’s easy to keep things going ‘by ear’ adjusting on the fly as it comes in and out of electrical contact. If you’re looking for more copper tape, any stained glass store will have it in stock.

[Edit: check out the original Drawdio site by the inventor - Jay Silver]

I’m always a little amazed at how much people pay monthly for TV service. We ran for years with no TV at all, and all the money we “saved” I easily spent on DVDs (and more I’m sure). Several year ago we decided that some amount of TV wasn’t a bad thing, it also gave me a great excuse to build a PVR based on MythTV. After shopping around StarChoice (now ShawDirect) seemed like the right fit. The basic package was cost effective and gave us enough TV. I liked the fact that we got HDTV in the base package, and that meant high definition hockey games and special events like the Olympics.

ShawDirect has a great policy (pdf) that lets you schedule seasonal breaks in service. I’ve been using one of those to try out using over the air (OTA) TV as our only source. We haven’t really noticed the lack of TV, even through the Stanley Cup finals (but our team wasn’t in it).

To move to OTA I needed two things: 1) a PC capture device for HDTV and 2) a set top box to convert the signal for use with my projector. The PC side of things came along as a deal from Dell – the Hauppauge WinTV HVR-950Q was on sale one day ($54.99). This came along with a tiny little antenna which surprisingly pulled several stations. The projector has no HDTV tuner (unlike most HDTV flat panel sets) and so it was off to eBay to get a set top box. This was the first time I had used the “Make an Offer” option on eBay and I was quite pleased with the price we negotiated. The tv tuner is known by several different brands: Centronics ZAT 502 HD / RTC DTA1100HD / Digiwave DTV5000HD.

On the 2nd floor of the house I could easily pull in CBC to watch hockey using the dinky little antenna that came with the 950Q. To route the signal to the projector I needed to get a little creative and pull some RG6 from the attic to the basement, the MythTV box is also downstairs. In many situations almost anything will work as an antenna, and the simple bow-tie version I built with mostly stuff I had around already is pretty close to that.

My build was inspired by a write up I found using simple materials, the antenna I built is a Gray-Hoverman. I used a scrap of 1×3, some 14 gauge (2 conductor #14) electrical wire, some screws and fender washers. The only part I needed was a matching transformer. You can see the end result in the picture at the top of this post.

I have this antenna attic mounted, with 100ft of cable between it and the tv tuner. It works well, pulling in 5 HDTV stations all with little to no drop outs. I’d like to try to get PBS HD, but that may require a bigger antenna or an amplifier (a project for later).

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Read the rest of OTA HDTV in Ottawa (95 words)

It took about a year to drain the toner down to the level where it needed a refill. So it was off to eBay to look for a deal. In 2009, refill kits were available and were about $100 for all four colors. By 2011 the price had dropped to $50 for all four colors, including reset chips and the cutting tool. I bought mine from easycartridgerefill and had a good buying experience. At the top of this post is a picture of everything that was shipped in the box: toner, cutting tool, instructions, funnel tips, sealing tape, gloves, microfiber cloth, and reset chips.

Step 1 – RTFM. The instructions are 2 pages of fairly detailed instructions. Having refilled toner before I just skimmed them, that was a mistake. The photo above you can see I’ve used the hole cutting tool on the wrong part of the cartridge.

Step 2 – We need to use the hole cutting tool to make a hole in the correct part of the cartridge (see below). For your first refill you only need one hole, the instructions cover a 2nd area to make a hole if you need to empty the ‘wastebin’ – as this was the 1st time I was doing a refill I skipped that part having already made enough extra holes.

Step 3 – Empty the toner cartridge prior to refilling. The instructions warn that mixing old toner with new is likely to result in less optimal results.

Step 4 – Fill using the new toner. If you look at the picture of the yellow toner bottle, you can see quite clearly that it is no where near close to full. This picture was taken before I used any toner, the bottles are quite over-sized. You may need to gently swirl the bottle around to loosen the toner prior to trying to pour it. Use the entire bottle, this may take some effort and patience.

Step 5 – Seal the hole with the provided tape. The tape provided was simply metallic duct work tape that you can get at HomeDepot. Toner is a very, very fine dust – it will leak out any tiny hole or gap.

Step 6 – Now we need to swap the tiny chip that provides status on the cartridge to the printer. Sadly, this chip also prevents the printer from continuing to use a toner cartridge after you’ve passed the estimated number of pages. The original chip is pictured on the left, and the refill (reset) chip on the right. The chip swap is very easy.

That’s it, we’re done – install your newly filled cartridge and start printing.

A quick visit to the web-ui shows a full yellow cartridge with 1400 page capacity.

There are some folk who apparently run the toner down to nothing by buying new reset chips only and swapping those until they are low on toner. This could save you a little money in the long run – but at $50 for a full refill kit it is hard to argue that you need to be that frugal. Sadly, the reset chips are not reusable.

I had a few mishaps on the way to complete success..

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Read the rest of HP Color Laser Printer (CP1518NI) Refill (351 words)

Now this doesn’t eliminate the need to clean the shower, and I should be honest here – when it does need cleaning I manage to neatly avoid doing the dirty work, but I can say that the Scrubbing Bubbles cleaner seems to lengthen the time between shower cleanings.

The only bummer is that the bottles are not refillable.  We stretch ours out by only using it every 2nd day or so (instead of every day as is recommended).  It still would be nice to be able to refill with a concentrate and dilute with water.  The catch is – the caps do not screw off, so you can’t open the bottles.

Let’s take a look at how the cap works:

So on the left you can see a close-up of the threaded part of the bottle. Very sneaky, they’ve put a pair of small ‘ratchet’ nubs – there is another pair on the other side as well.  Looking at the cap, you can see the corresponding teeth.  Once tightened down, the cap is very solidly locked onto the bottle.

To hack this – you’ll need two of the scrubbing bubbles empty containers.  From one you will recover a cap, from the other the bottle.  To remove (destroy) the cap, I used a pair of wire cutters and a pair of needle nose pliers.  I started a cut up the side of the cap, then grabbed the edge of the cut with the pliers and peeled it back.  I used 2 or three cuts until I managed to free the cap from the bottle.  Removing (destroying) the bottle to recover a cap was easier, but I used the same basic approach: a small cut, followed by the pliers to twist the material away.  Go slow (and carefully with sharp tools!) since you want to avoid any damage to the part you are trying to keep.

The bottle must be modified to removing the nubs.  The plastic is a hard plastic which seemed to respond nicely to a coarse file I had in my workshop.  A few minutes of work and I had smoothed over the two pairs of nubs – the cap now opens and closes easily.  Now we’ve got a refillable container.

The LifeHacker article inspired me, but clearly not enough to quickly leap on the idea and deal with my mess of cables.  They actually have a whole category dedicated to cable management which is worth a browse if you are looking for ideas.  The original concept came from a site which seems to be gone now, but can still be seen via the Way Back Machine.

So pictured above is my version of the peg board cable organizer.  I’ve got a 2′ x 4′ peg board mounted on the back of the desk (between the desk and the wall).  There are only 2 screws holding the board to the desk (upper left and right corners).  I’ve used a couple of washers between the peg board and the desk to give it a bit of room for the cable ties.  Everything is zip-tied to the board, power bar included.  Since I’ve only got 2 screws at the top, I can bend the board (gently) away from the desk to get easy access to the back side to help route the zip ties.

The view from the front of the desk is what makes this worth doing.  No clutter on the floor (ok, an errant ethernet cable and the USB to the printer).  Even for my desk (pictured is Jenn’s) – where I need to plug and unplug things like my laptop regularly, this setup works well.  I simply mounted the powerbar near the top of the peg board and that places the outlets near enough to the top of the back edge of the desk that its not a problem.

This project only took a couple of hours, it is very functional – and tidy too.  What are you waiting for?

One solution would have been to simply buy a new tire.  I thought that being like a car tire, I could probably take it by a local garage and have them do it for me.  However, I had a nagging feeling there was some way to DIY so I finally got to searching for a solution.

It was very easy to find some good advice on the net (this is as you know, not always true).  So the value of this post is probably limited, but I learned something today so I thought I’d share.

Tools you need: rope, air pump, long screwdriver or sturdy stick, soapy water.

1. Use the soapy water (1/2 water, 1/2 dish soap) to coat the beads of the tire (both sides) and the rim where it will mate up.
2. Tie the rope snugly around the circumference of the tire.
3. Stick the screwdriver through the rope and twist, causing the rope to tighten.  This should help you get the bead onto the rim on both sides [in my case, it was not quite there - but close enough to seal the gaps]
4. Pump the tire.  This should cause the bead to set onto the rim.  Slowly release the twist while you pump.

That’s it – easy to fix with stuff you should be able to find around the workshop.