Spyder2

As I have mentioned in a previous posting, I use the Spyder2 sensor with the HCFR software for colour calibration.

The Spyder2 isn’t actually intended for use with front projection systems, but in practice it works quite well. The first hurdle is tripod mounting the sensor which doesn’t come with a screw hole for the tripod. In the past I’ve used a little painters tape to hold it on.

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While this works fine, I’d much rather be able to screw it onto the tripod mount like I do my camera. It turns out that a standard 1/4″-20 nut will work just fine for this purpose, that an a little glue gives me a nice way to tripod mount the sensor.

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There is a removable filter on the Spyder2, the documentation recommends using the filter for LCD displays (flat panel/computer monitors). In the past for CRT projector calibration I’ve removed it and aimed the sensor at the screen to record the reflected light. For my current LCD projector I’ve been leaving the filter on.

Tonight I experimented with the filter on, and off. With surprising results. I am using HCFR in its LCD mode, but I would have thought that would have minimal impact on the readings.

Filter On
withfilter.jpg

Filter Off
nofilter.jpg

These readings are based on a 70 IRE gray screen, all I did was swap the filter on and off. The filter on measurement matches what I was seeing on screen, a mostly balanced gray.

From my experiments, there seems to be some minor variation in readings based on the angle of the sensor relative to screen surface, but only a few percentages. When pointing the sensor at the projector there is more variation, but it didn’t seem to be radically different.

When reflected from the screen, I have the projector ceiling mounted and the sensor pointing at an angle up toward the center of the screen. You can get a sense of what I mean by the first picture in this posting. When gather data on having the sensor pointed at the projector, I mounted it a few feet out from the screen, approximately centered and as perpendicular to the incoming light as I could manage by eye.

Here is the CIE diagram based on readings from the screen.

from_screen_cie.jpg

And here is the CIE diagram with the sensor pointing at the projector.

sensor_towards_cie.jpg

The CIE diagrams look nearly identical. Things get more interesting when we look at the RGB levels and delta E.

Here is the RGB levels as read from the screen.

from_screen_rgb.jpg

And now RGB with the sensor pointing at the projector.

sensor_towards_rgb.jpg

By pointing at the projector, I’m able to get more sane looking reading down to 20IRE, whereas the reflected from the screen readings are only sane to 30IRE.

However, the delta E values are quite a bit higher when pointing at the projector. This may be due to higher variation in the readings due to the angle vis-a-vis the projector or that we are not taking into account the effect of the screen. It almost seems we are trading off accuracy for better low IRE response.

In conclusion:

  1. I’d highly recommend gluing a nut onto your Spyder2 sensor, it makes mounting it on a tripod really easy.
  2. Filter on seems to be the way to go, but I’d like to understand why I got such whacky readings with it off.
  3. Reflected off the screen seems to be the best solution for getting readings.

HDMI Cables

HDMI has been around since late 2002, but until about 2006 it was a total non issue for most folk and I’d consider it still in the fairly early adopter stage. Easy for me to say, I’ve got an HDMI video chain now.

If you are considering a new TV / Display then HDMI should factor in to your decision, but don’t buy into any of the sales pitch on deep colour etc. The real benefit to HDMI is that it is a digital connection between your source (DVD Player) and the display (TV). The content it carries is the same (for the most part), but keeping it in the digital domain is a real benefit.

Most of the cable makers are taking people to the cleaners. FutureShop’s cheapest HDMI cable is $49.99. If you want to stick to a big brand name, the Monster cables start at $83.99 up to $156.99 for a 1M cable. What is shocking here, is that almost all of the cables come from the same small set of factories in China – you really are paying extra for the name brand.

From my research and reading, assuming a reasonable level of quality in the cable construction, up to 5M you don’t need to worry about the bandwidth capabilities of the cable. Even the cheap cables will handle 1080p and beyond. Additionally, as most consumer equipment is only just starting to pass 1080p there is no reason to support more than that – with the one exception of cables that are run in the walls. For a 1M cable, you don’t need to spend a lot, and you can buy in wall rated cables relatively cheaply as I did.

My choice was to go with Blue Jeans Cable, specifically I bought their Tartan line of cables. Let’s take a look at what came in the mail:

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So for my setup, I needed two 15foot cables. One HDMI/HDMI for my new Oppo 980 DVD player, so I got the slightly more expensive 24AWG cable for $15.75. The second cable is for my Starchoice DSR 505 for which I needed DVI/HDMI, since the best I can get out of this box is 720p/1080i I chose the less expensive 28AWG for $6.00. Yup, six dollars, and it will very likely support 1080p over that distance.

Here you can see them plugged into my projector:

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The 24AWG cable jacket is bigger than the power cord. I strongly suspect that the FutureShop cables are 28AWG at best, very likely a smaller gauge. Oh yeah, and shipping was $5.75 – so I still came out way ahead.

The cables work great, no issues at all. In summary, yes HDMI is a good option to have but don’t pay an arm and a leg for the cables.