How To: Replace BlackBerry 9700 Keyboard

My brother in-law managed to lose the ALT key from his BlackBerry Bold 9700. He had been living with the lack of the key for some time as he didn’t realize how cheap it would be to replace it. I was happy to do the work simply because it let me take a new device apart.

Off to eBay for a new keyboard. There were many options. The prices ranged from $3 shipping included, $8 from a USA based source, or $12 within Canada (you can pay much more if you want). Lately I’ve had some trouble with shipments from China taking 60 days (or more) and my brother in-law was happy to pay a bit more to get the part sooner so we went with the $12 part.

A bit of searching located a good textual description of how to replace the keyboard on a 9700. The same thread references a youtube clip that provides a visual of the disassembly. You’ll need a Torx T5 and either slightly long fingernails, or some sort of plastic pry tool. Unfortunately my trusty micro-tip set from Lee Valley failed me here, the smallest Torx driver it has is a T6 – I cheated and used a small flathead from another micro screwdriver set which seemed to work ok.

The first step should be to remove the back and battery. You can leave the SIM and microSD cards in place.

Now we remove the bottom cover. This felt really tricky, but as we get further we’ll discover this is the easy part. Pry using your fingernail or the plastic pry tool under the “tops of the U-shape” on either side, releasing one side then the other.

You can see the two exposed screws. The lower one (in the picture) has a white dot on it, this is the tamper proof sticker. Some people have been able to slide this onto a razer blade / exacto knife and have been able to preserve the sticker. I tried, but it tore partially. In the end I just trashed it. Remove the two screws.

Removing the bezel was the tricky part. I found this youtube video to be the most instructive. You start by popping up the bottom lip (the part held down by the screws we took out). Then you need to free the clips on either side of the screen. These come free best by working outwards from the screen. Once the bottom half is free, then the top part pops / slides upwards on the phone. It took me a good 15 minutes of gentle prying and poking to determine how it came off, but once I had it sorted out it was quite easy to do again. Some folk do manage to ruin the bezel doing this procedure, so I’d suggest working as carefully as possible – you can always purchase a replacement if needed.

At this point swapping the keyboard is trivial. Re-assembly is quite simple. Again the bezel is the tricky part. Press the bezel down onto the phone 1st, then once it is in place you’ll want to squeeze the sides inwards to set the bezel correctly. Things should all click into place easily.

I ended up taking the phone apart and reassembling it twice. The second time was quite easy, once I had the feel for it. This is easier than taking an iPod apart, but harder than the Nokia 5310 mostly because of the bezel.

Things didn’t go entirely smoothly, the blame falls entirely on the replacement part.

One of the keys on the new keyboard simply fell out. This wasn’t a huge problem as a little super glue and the key was back in place. The keyboard is made up of the frame, a rubber membrane, and the keys. The membrane allows the keys to move within the frame. The key that fell out wasn’t properly bonded to the membrane. I’ve held onto the old keyboard in case more keys go missing. The original problem was a missing ALT key, but in that case the rubber membrane had torn away as well.

Above you can see the second problem, and what led me to disassemble the phone a 2nd time. The ALT key pictured above on the right is raised more than the keys around it. I thought that maybe there was something jammed under the key preventing it from lying flat. Upon inspection it appears that it is a manufacturing defect.

Certainly worth doing. While I had issues with the part quality, I suspect this was just bad luck. The slightly raised ALT key functions fine and really isn’t a big deal.

How To: Acer AspireOne RAM upgrade

Back in July of 2008 I picked up an Acer AspireOne, one of the first netbooks. Since netbooks have been mostly dropped in favor of tablets, you can pick up a netbook around the $200 price point. Most netbooks seem to take DDR2 laptop RAM, and this can be found on the used market fairly cheap. The 512MB pictured above was $5.

The AspireOne continues to be a useful machine, I’ve recently moved over to the netbook remix for Ubuntu. It does suffer from limited screen real estate, a very slow solid state drive, and prior to the upgrade – only 512MB of RAM. Doubling the RAM for $5 seemed too tempting, especially since it gave me a good excuse to take it apart.

Read on for the gory tear down details..

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Squeezebox Classic Repair

I’ve had a Squeezebox Classic (Squeezebox 3) for a couple of years, and over that time I’ve been very happy with the functionality and quality of the device. I’m glad that through the transition to Logitech they’ve managed to remain successful in their niche, and I still recommend them to folks looking for a quality media player.

You can’t buy the Squeezebox 3 anymore, but the Squeezebox Touch appears to be the closest comparable product. If that’s not audiophile enough for you, there is always the Transporter. More important than the media player is the encoding format you select for your music (nothing is going to make 64k MP3s sound good). Squeezebox supports FLAC if you’re really serious, and high bitrate MP3s are no sweat either. It also supports non-DRM Apple format (AAC), Ogg Vorbis and a host of others.

I’m a little back level on the server software, but it has been consistently good. The web interface is reasonable and there are some fairly good remote control apps for the iPhone and Android. I run the software on my file server, but there are ways of getting this running on various NAS units as well which is a nice combination.

For various reasons the Squeezebox is at toddler level in our family room. This means over the last few months it has endured countless drops onto the floor. It seemed to handle these well, but the other day I noticed the screen was dark and it was no longer on the network. Initial attempts to reset / reboot the device failed to make any difference. When power was applied to the device, you’d see the TOSLink connector light up (see picture at top of this post), but that was about it. So I had to open it up.

Inside the unit was very clean, and I didn’t notice any soldering quality issues that others had mentioned in the forums. Unfortunately, my first visit inside the box didn’t reveal any actual problems so it ended up sitting on the shelf waiting for me to find some time to investigate further.

Tonight I discovered what was wrong, I should also credit this forum thread for helping me. There is the main circuit board, and mounted on that is a daughter card. Slotted into that daughter card is the wifi card (you can see this stack of cards in the picture above). Apparently the unit will work without the wifi card installed, and it is a part that goes bad for some. I am glad mine is still working, but I run my device over wire anyways. What I didn’t realize the 1st time I looked was the daughter card had become separated from the main circuit board.

Just to the left of my finger tip, you can see a rectangular white connector. I’m holding the board slightly up to show a separation between the two connectors. This is how the daughter card connects to the main board. To help you visualize the orientation, the RCA connector(s) are where the black box is to the right of my finger.

Here is a second shot of the daughter card properly installed. If you look carefully you can see the rectangular connectors are well mated. That was all it took to fix things up. You’ll need a torx t10 or similar screwdriver to open up the device. There are 2 screws securing the cover, then a further 4 inside holding the main board to the case.