Mysterious AMD USB drive

Ken went to EclipseCon and all he brought me back was this lousy USB drive..

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Actually, I had seen Ian’s post EclipseCon Guide to Free Stuff and asked Ken to grab me one.

As expected, there were a bunch of AMD promotional .pdf files on the device.  I’m interested in reading through it at one point, but I also think a ‘free’ 1Gig USB drive is pretty handy.  The drive shows up with 2 partitions, one is 20MB with the promotional material on it – read-only, and the other is a read/write partition with the remainder of the Gig.

Now maybe there is something I just don’t know about flash drives, but I’m not able to convince Windows or Linux to reformat this thing to remove the 20MB read only partition.  If anyone out there knows the magic, please add a comment with the solution.

I got to thinking maybe it was a hardware hack.  So of course, I busted it open.

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The flip side is a very generic looking 1Gig flash chip.  The controller chip is by ChipBank, a CBM2090.  There are some data sheets available for it, but nothing that really tells me much.

I’m actually starting to get the feeling that this is a clever firmware hack.  If I had access to the right software, I could reach in and tweak the system to ‘fix’ the read only flag and reformat to my liking.  So far, no luck.

Epson 1080 UB: Convergence

All 3LCD displays have the potential to have convergence issues. Since the 3 display panels are mounted independently, the manufacturing process has to install and align the 3 panels – and any of the other elements in the optical path such that the resulting image on screen shows perfect alignment of the red, green and blue pixels.

There is also chromatic aberration to consider as well. My impression here is that the Epson lens system doesn’t introduce too much chromatic aberration. The lens on my digital camera seems to have a bigger problem here, causing the blue mis-convergence my 1080UB has to seem worse than it is. I’ve also noted this in other peoples screen shots of their convergence issues.

There is plenty of debate over what is acceptable mis-convergence. The competing DLP projection technology tends to using a single DMD chip with a colour wheel. Using a single chip has both advantages and dis-advantages. There are 3 chip DLP projectors, which will have some of the same convergence issues. The recent Sony VW60 has a novel solution to this problem, allowing for adjustments via image processing to hide the effect of mis-converged panels.

Ideally a projector with perfect convergence would be best. It is a little frustrating to know that there are 1080UB units out there with better convergence than mine may have. However, in the bigger picture – convergence is not the only measure of the quality of a projector and there are certainly other variables to consider. The best advice is to worry if you can see the effect from your closest seating distance, test patterns will show it up much more obviously than video material which tends to hide this type of problem. At the 1080UB price point, there will be problems if you look at things under a microscope.

My 1080UB has relatively good convergence. The blue is off by less than a pixel, and red and green seem almost perfect.  It turns out that blue is a very difficult colour for people to see, so having blue mis-converged is much less of an issue than red or green. I can only see the mis-convergence by standing right up against the screen. Here is a picture from quite close up of the internal menus, excuse the poor quality of the picture this is the best after multiple attempts with my point and shoot digital camera:

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For comparison here are a few that I’ve captured from AVSForum that demonstrate bad convergence:

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In each of the above examples, there is an obvious mis-convergence. It was reported as clearly visible from the normal seating distance with test pattern material. Normal video made it more difficult (or nearly impossible) to spot.

Art Feierman of projectorreviews.com recently posted in his blog on the 1080UB convergence problems which have been a hot topic on the AVSForum of late. Seeing Art’s posting was the kick I needed to write this up, which I’ve been meaning to do for a while.

From everything I’ve read, Epson has provided people with great after sales service – replacing any units people feel are not good enough. Recently my $200 rebate arrived, so I’m quite happy with Epson in that I didn’t need to call the rebate center and chase my claim – another thumbs up on customer service in my opinion.

In summary – I consider myself satisfied with the convergence of the 1080UB I have, it isn’t perfect – but after spending some amount of time evaluating it, I have to honestly say that I cannot see it from any reasonable seating distance.

Not User Servicable

I tell people that I’m pretty handy, but the truth is I just like to take things apart. When I was a kid I used to take the kitchen cupboard doors off with a screwdriver, and then put them back on. So noisy fan and a label like this:

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Is just an invitation to crack the case open and fix it. How can you resist when they tell you they don’t expect you to be able to fix it yourself? Actually, over the years I’ve fixed a few power supplies – so this was pretty much business as usual.

Now what was a bit unusual about this one was how nasty it had gotten inside. This PC was my old webserver, and it sat in the basement while I was renovating – including busting open the concrete floor to do some plumbing (something I don’t recommend). The PC case itself had a very dead spider, and a fair amount of concrete dust everywhere. It is sort of surprising it was working at all.

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Even after blowing the dust out the fan was very noisy. Luckily I happened to have a few 80mm Vantec Stealth fans around. Replacing the fan was pretty straight forward. I ended up splicing the wires as the new fan had 3 wires (yellow for speed control) and the stock fan plug wasn’t a match. Here is the new fan installed in the cleaned out power supply.

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The date on this power supply is April 30, 1998, the PC its in is from the same era. I’m actually using this Pentium II 400 for something useful, but I honestly can’t say how much longer I’ll bother keeping this relic around.. 10 years is a good run for a PC.