Category: Gadgets

Samsung Galaxy S7 Battery Swap

Sure, the Samsung S7 is a 6 year old phone at this point – but it’s perfect for my son who’s in grade 7 and doesn’t really need a phone. The other day it stopped turning on – when you plugged it in, it would indicate the battery was at 100%. I could even get it to power on while plugged in, but removing the USB power would result in an immediate black screen as it powered off hard.

I sort of dreaded opening this phone up because it’s one of the ones that is glued shut. I was pleasantly surprised, as a little heating with the heat gun and the all metal back came up pretty easily using a suction cup. After that there were some phillips screws to remove and I was able to see the battery.

It was clear there was a problem here – the connector should be squared up with the rest of the circuit board. If you look closely – you can see that the battery has also shifted down significantly within the phone, nearly 2mm.

Taking a close look at the cable – you can see the connector is a little busted up despite my photo being a bit out of focus.

I attempted to reconnect the cable, but soon found out that the connector was badly damaged and it snapped off the cable completely.

Oh well. Off to search up buying a new battery for this phone. A quick look around and it seems there are lots of choices – some as low as $16 (eBay), and the normal crazy mark-up ones at $60-$90. I opted for one of the Chinese made knock off brands off of Amazon that came with tools (junk) and the adhesive to re-attach the back. It also claimed to be 3300 mAh vs the stock 3000. It was at a slight premium vs. eBay, but only a couple of bucks and the reviews were good. Worth the $25 and it shipped to me the next day.

My pricing logic for stuff like this is to avoid the cheapest prices – these are often very cheap for a reason. There is a step up from the cheapest where you’re going to get basically the same part up to the next price plateau – if you can discern the price notches you can basically buy at certain quality levels. The danger with all of these is that lots of unethical sellers will slap OEM labels on parts that are not, so often paying a high premium is not buying quality at all. It’s always a gamble which is frustrating.

The battery I’m replacing was already previously replaced. I think this is why the battery didn’t fit very well in the phone.  The poor fit is likely what resulted in it breaking off (when the phone was dropped, probably multiple times if I know my son). If you fit the broken battery into the compartment properly there is a significant gap at the bottom.

Again, this is nearly 2mm gap. The OEM battery is tape/glued in – but I suspect it also fit much more snugly in the space. If you are replacing a battery – consider if it will slide around and either tape – or pad it – to avoid the battery moving. I know that I’ve done battery swaps and left a gap in the past – I probably won’t in the future.

The new battery fits like a glove. Top to bottom, almost no space to move around. So I didn’t bother taping it in place, I’m pretty confident it’ll stay put.

While I’m not a fan of glued shut phones – I did use adhesive to re-seal the phone. Hopefully I won’t have to go back in at all. In a couple of years this phone will basically be too old to use. While it’s still running stock firmware, it does appear that there is an unofficial but current LineageOS build for it.

The S7 got a 3/10 score for repairability – but it wasn’t really that bad to get at the battery. The places where it got hit on the score was replacing some of the other components – I’ve certainly had more than 1 USB charge port go bad, and gluing that to the screen seems like a really bad idea. There really needs to be a better trade of for waterproofing and repairability.

Consumer Electronics and Leaky Batteries

Recently I’ve been working on some IR remote control stuff, this has me digging through my bin of old remotes looking for one I could use as the controller.

I had one of these classic Haupauge remotes which I’d used a long time ago with a MythTV setup. I’ve long ago retired this machine and tossed the remote into the bin. Sadly I didn’t remove the batteries, and when I opened up the battery compartment I saw that they had leaked and corroded.

This has happened to me before, and usually cleaning out the battery compartment and putting some new batteries is all that’s needed. Unfortunately not this time.

It turns out that opening this remote is easy enough, but I needed some force. The top part snaps onto the lower part – no screws. I used a metal blade to get the two parts separated a little and then was able to get a pry tool in to pop them apart. The case was surprisingly durable and it did need more force than I was comfortable using – but in this case, I figured it didn’t work so I had little to lose.

Here you can see the circuit board before I’d cleaned it up. There was quite a bit of white build-up around the chip and generally around the circuit board at the bottom. There was a recent hackaday post on restoring an old gameboy that had similar problems.

Unfortunately I was not as lucky with this remote.

The chip lost an entirely leg – and this is the power pin as well. I suppose if I was highly motivated to repair I could try grinding off the corner of the chip and then soldering a bridge inside. However, this is a bit beyond my ability to work at microscopic levels.

The lesson here is that when you stash an old remote control away – remove the batteries. For me, the remote is junk – I might strip out the IR led and re-use it somewhere, but that’s about it.

Flashing Tasmota over serial

In my previous post on Tasmota I was able to make use of tuya-convert which supports over the air (OTA) updating a ‘smart wifi’ device to the Tasmota firmware. Tuya-convert relies on exploiting a defect in the firmware, Tuya has patched this bug and some (many) device manufacturers have started to ship updated versions of the software – and in some cases new, non-ESP based hardware. Thankfully many devices are still based on ESP hardware and many of the circuit boards even have test points exposed that make hooking up a serial adapter possible for someone comfortable with a soldering iron.

The Tasmota doc is a great place to start. The device I’m working on is a Gosund Smart Light Switch SW5. I did try tuya-convert on this and got the id2 response which indicates that there is a newer firmware. Opening up the lightswitch was easy, but you will need T6 torx screwdriver. Once the circuit board was out I could take a close look.

We can see that the chip is an ESP-8285, that will let me find the data sheet and figure out the pin outs. We can also use the Tasmota doc on pin outs as a reference. Right at the top of the image you can see test / solder pads on the edge, these are going to be useful.

I’ve annotated the chip diagram to show the pins I’ll need to flash the device. It’s hard to tell from the photos I’ve shown so far the scale of the chip, but I can tell you that I don’t have the skills to solder directly to the pins of the chip – I’ll need to use the break out pads on the side of the circuit board. Even those solder pads are very small.

I confirmed based on the data sheet that the break out pads mapped to the pins I had identified on the chip using a multi-meter. The pins on the chip are very small and I was working by feel mostly, but it gave me enough confidence that I could use the break out pads to do the connection.

It is very important to only power the ESP-8285 with 3.3V. If you use 5V you are very likely to break things permanently. Off to eBay I went to pick up what I thought was one of the recommended CH340G serial adapter boards. I later learned that the one I bought did not have a voltage regulator making it unable to supply enough power for the ESP-8285.

You can see that while this board supports 3.3V or 5V – you must modify the board to break the solder bridge to the 5V and add one to the 3.3V. I was able to verify the voltage was 3.3V after my modification with a multi-meter.

At first I had decided because the break out pads were evenly spaced and about the same spacing as a pin header. I did try this – but got stumped by the fact that if I did hook it up correctly the LED on the CH340G adapter would go out and things didn’t work. This turned out to be due to the fact that this adapter would not supply enough power to the ESP-8285. This approach might work, but soldering to the pads was easy enough and that’s the path I ended up taking.

I decided to use Linux and the esptool to do the flashing. It turns out that I could just use pip to install the esptool.

On Linux, if you haven’t modified your user to be in the right group you may not be able to use the /dev/ttyUSB0 device. There may also be additional things you need to do in order for the adapter to be recognized by the OS. I’ll leave these challenges up to the reader to overcome with some creative use of a search engine.

Here are the results of my soldering job – along with a micro-SD card for a sense of scale. This is very small but it’s not too difficult if you use a few tricks. Solder paste on the pads applied with a toothpick are a big help to get the solder to flow. Pre-tinning the wires helps. Working under magnification helped my aging eyes. Make sure the soldering iron is completely warmed up. Also add a little solder to the tip of the iron (pre-tin the tip). With these preparation steps, it should be easy to just touch the iron and the wire to the pad and the solder will flow and you’re good.

Initially I had wanted to avoid soldering, but it turned out to be very quick and easy to do. The reliability of the connection is also superior to trying to press fit the wires – and creating a jig would take a lot more time. In future when I need to flash over serial I’ll just go warm up the soldering iron.

I then decided the correct wiring to perform. Note that TX/RX are swapped. IO0 is pulled to ground to force the ESP into programming mode.

It was here where I ran completely into the wall trying to use my cheap eBay CH340G adapter. I did find someone else who’d succeeded flashing the SW5, which gave me hope that I could succeed. It turns out there is a friendly community you can connect with on Discord to talk about Tasmota things. I started a conversation in the #flashing-issues channel and after a short while got some helpful advice.

Now it turns out, I’d been hasty. If I’d done more research I would have found that having a stable 3.3V power supply wasn’t a given for all of the adapters. While the golden CH340G can be had for a few dollars – many of the CH340G adapters do not have a voltage regulator on them and will not work with the ESP devices. Once the Discord folks had kindly educated me on this – I created a pull request to add some additional warnings to the doc (which has been merged).

Fellow Canadians might be able to grab one of these CH340G adapters from Amazon, it has the required voltage regulator. In my case I dug through my pile of electronic projects and  came up with a Circuit Playground Express, it has an onboard voltage regulator and will easily deliver the ~150mA that the ESP needs (as long as I’m not trying to drive the onboard LEDs).

This changes my wiring diagram. I’ve abbreviated Circuit Playground Express (CPE).

By connecting all the GND lines together I ensure both devices are using the same reference. I’m pulling the 3.3V from the CPE, but the CH340G adapter is being used for the programming. This worked like a charm, but was a mess of wires.

Now that I have stable power, I can follow the steps.

1. Backup firmware

Unplug the connections and do them again – (power cycles the setup)

2. Erase flash

Again, reset the world

3. Upload tasmota.bin – make sure you get the right firmware.

Now you can test your work by providing only power (GND and 3.3v) to the SW5 device to see if the Tasmota firmware starts up ok and offers a WiFi access point (tasmota_XXXXXX-####). You can even go through the initial setup and get it connected to your network.

After I’d gotten my SW5 running Tasmota, I then re-assembled the actual light switch. I found that you had to carefully tighten the screws to avoid binding the switching action. I then temporarily wired this to house wiring to confirm that all of the functions worked as expected. Once things were good, I could permanently install this in my desired location.

I’d referenced flashing Tasmota over serial as the ‘hard way’ – but as long as you can disassemble the device to get to the circuit board, and there are test points you can solder to – it isn’t all that hard. You do need to be comfortable with a soldering iron, and have the right gear to program 3.3V serial.