Repair Acer AspireOne 532H Netbook Screen

IMG_2767The Acer AspireOne 10.1″ netbook is a handy secondary computer to have around. It’s quite capable of browsing the web, email and viewing photos. Most casual users could likely happily use it as their primary machine. Tablets have all but killed this market, I’m hopeful that the Google Chromebook will bring help back this form factor.

Unfortunately being a secondary computer means that it gets left around (on the floor) and stepped on. This was the sad fate of this particular netbook. It turns out that replacement screens are relatively inexpensive making it well worth fixing. First step was to boot the netbook connected to an external monitor to confirm the resolution of the panel and make sure nothing else was wrong. Armed with that, and a compatibility list  I was able to find a good price for one from a Canadian seller on ebay. Shipping was very fast and the screen came well packaged: boxed and inside a padded envelope.

IMG_2769

Disassembly is quite easy, this YouTube video covers it quite well. Below you’ll find some photos and my notes on the process.

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Add drive to RAID5 on Ubuntu

Some time ago I migrated from a RAID1 setup to RAID5, this was on the minimum 3 drives. At some point this summer I spotted a good deal on a matching 1TB drive to what I had in my array and bought it. My purchase sat in my desk drawer for a month (or two) then I finally got around to installing it into the server. At least another couple of months went by until I got to adding it to my array – it turns out to be really simple and I’m kicking myself for dragging my feet.

With any hardware upgrade (specifically drives) it’s a good idea to capture what the system thinks things look like before you make any changes. For the most part Ubuntu talks about UUIDs for drives, but a couple of places (at least in my install) use the /dev/sd*# names and can trip you up when you shuffle hardware around. Capturing the drive assignments is simply a matter of:

$ sudo fdisk -l | grep ^/dev

Post hardware installation I was surprised at how much of a shuffle the /dev/sd*#‘s changed around. I was glad I had a before and after capture of the data, it also let me identify the new drive pretty easily.

Early in my notes I have “could it be this simple?” and a link to the kernel.org wiki on RAID. It turns out that yes, it really is that simple — but you do need to follow the steps carefully. I did also find an Ubuntu Forum post that was a good read for background too.

The new drive I had temporarily used on an OSX system to do some recovery work, so fdisk wasn’t very happy about working with the drive that had a GUID partition table (GPT). It turns out parted was happy to work with the volume and let me even change it back into something fdisk could work with.

I puzzled over the fact that this new drive wanted to start at 2048 instead of 63, I was initially under the incorrect assumption this had something to do with the GPT setup that I hadn’t been able to fix. Consider two basically identical volumes (old followed by new)

$ sudo fdisk -l /dev/sdb

Disk /dev/sdb: 1000.2 GB, 1000204886016 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 121601 cylinders, total 1953525168 sectors
Units = sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes
Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 512 bytes
I/O size (minimum/optimal): 512 bytes / 512 bytes
Disk identifier: 0x00000000

Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sdb1 63 1953520064 976760001 83 Linux

$ sudo fdisk -l /dev/sdc

Disk /dev/sdc: 1000.2 GB, 1000204886016 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 121601 cylinders, total 1953525168 sectors
Units = sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes
Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes
I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes
Disk identifier: 0x00000000

Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sdc1 2048 1953525134 976761543+ 83 Linux

I’ve highlighted the key differences in bold, you can see the physical sector size is 4096 vs. 512 and that is the reason for the different start position. Ok, diversion over – let’s actually follow the wiki and get this drive added to the RAID array.

Start by looking at what we have:

$ cat /proc/mdstat
Personalities : [raid6] [raid5] [raid4] [linear] [multipath] [raid0] [raid1] [raid10]
md_d3 : active raid5 sdf1[1] sdd1[0] sdb1[2]
1953519872 blocks level 5, 64k chunk, algorithm 2 [3/3] [UUU]

So, my RAID5 array is /dev/md_d3, and I know my new drive is /dev/sdc1 after my parted/fdisk adventure above.

$ sudo mdadm --add /dev/md_d3 /dev/sdc1

Now we look at mdstat again and it shows we have a spare. This is honestly what I should have at least done with the drive immediately after installing it – having a spare lets the RAID array fail over to the spare drive with no administrator intervention.

$ cat /proc/mdstat
Personalities : [raid6] [raid5] [raid4] [linear] [multipath] [raid0] [raid1] [raid10]
md_d3 : active raid5 sdc1[3](S) sdf1[1] sdd1[0] sdb1[2]
1953519872 blocks level 5, 64k chunk, algorithm 2 [3/3] [UUU]

Next we grow the array across the new device

$ sudo mdadm --grow --raid-devices=4 /dev/md_d3

You can peek at /proc/mdstat from time to time (or use the watch command) to monitor progress. This may take a while.

Once this is done, don’t forget to modify /etc/mdadm/mdadm.conf as per the wiki: “To make mdadm find your array edit /etc/mdadm.conf and correct the num-devices information of your Array”

At this point we now have our data spread across more drives, but don’t have a larger volume. We need to resize the volume to take advantage of the new space. It’s recommended you do the resize with the RAID5 volume unmounted (offline). I set about to do this and hit problems unmounting the volume: this turned out to be samba holding on to the volume, turning that service off fixed things.

Then I hit a show stopper, the resize2fs command failed:

$ sudo resize2fs -p /dev/md_d3
resize2fs 1.42 (29-Nov-2011)
resize2fs: Device or resource busy while trying to open /dev/md_d3
Couldn't find valid filesystem superblock.

Huh? This is something I’ll one day sort out I suppose, but it really beats me what is going on here. You can resize RAID5 while it’s online too, it’s slower and a bit scarier, but it works.

$ sudo resize2fs /dev/md_d3
resize2fs 1.42 (29-Nov-2011)
Filesystem at /dev/md_d3 is mounted on /stuff; on-line resizing required
old_desc_blocks = 117, new_desc_blocks = 175
Performing an on-line resize of /dev/md_d3 to 732569952 (4k) blocks.

This was followed by a few moments of terror as I realized that I was doing this over a SSH connection – what if the connection is lost? Next time I’ll use screen, or nohup the process.

It was neat to watch the free space on the drive creep upwards. It was running at about 1Gb every 2 seconds. Once this finishes, you’re done. My RAID volume went from 1.9T to 2.8T with the new drive.

How to: Dell Inspiron 1525 repair

As the “computer guy” in the family from time to time a repair job will land on my doorstep. This was an older Dell Inspiron 1525 laptop that wasn’t booting anymore. This time it wasn’t some horrible virus that had eaten a system file, but the hard drive starting to fail (something I verified by booting a Live USB version of Ubuntu).

The very first thing you need to do at any sign of hard drive failure is run a complete backup. If you really care about some of the data, then I suggest you start with the bits you really care about (photos) and work your way outwards to a full backup. Don’t be shy about “wasting” backup drive space, this might be the last hour (or minutes) of functioning drive. I make this comment from experience watching a full backup stop due to total drive failure part way through the photo directories after successfully backing up a bunch of system files.

You can (as I have) try gddrescue or similar recover tools once you’ve done what you can with the drive in terms of backup. This might get you a little bit more data, but these tools are in my opinion last ditch efforts to salvage failing media. You can try the freezer trick, or even warming the drive up but don’t count on them working. It’s worth repeating: nothing beats regular backups – unless it’s automatic nightly incremental backups with off-site replication.

Replacing the failed drive is simply a matter of finding the manual, and buying a matching drive. If this were my personal system I’d be tempted to upgrade to a SSD, but there is still a big price difference. I booted from the Live USB Ubuntu for the first boot after install, this let me check the hardware was good to go and to peek at the SMART data. It was interesting to see that the SMART data says power cycles=4, I guess they really do test the drives at the factory.

Installing using the Dell Windows install disks went smoothly, the driver installation steps were annoying and kludgey feeling but not too horrible. Time then crawled to a stand still as I worked my way through the updates from Microsoft, one patch set at a time from 2008 (era of the install media) to present day. Many, many, many reboots later I had a clean install that was fully patched and ready to go back. If you find yourself having to do this more than once in a long while, consider using a more advanced technique.

Well, with the exception of the problem of a missing key. Amazingly the lack of the key didn’t prevent you from using it – the ‘T’ worked just fine, it just felt very wrong. I quick trip off to ebay and I was able to locate a suitable replacement. It turns out I needed a K26 type key, and that the same model had at least four variations. This website had a handy guide for selecting the type of key you needed.

Pictured above is what arrived in the mail. A rubber plunger, a plastic hinge and the key cap. First I needed to pop the hinge off of the key, the blade from my swiss army knife did the job worked well. Then I had to puzzle a bit over which way the hinge was supposed to go on the keyboard.

I hope the picture above helps others understand how it is supposed to fit on the keyboard – it was the image I had hoped to find on the internet when I was trying to figure it out. Some of the  youtube videos show using needle nose pliers to do the installation, I found that my fingernails did the job. One the hinge in on, simply plop the rubber plunger in the middle – large base down as pictured in the arrive in the mail shot. The key cap will just snap on when placed on top and pressed down – work the top first, then the bottom.

Replacing the missing key was very satisfying,  not very expensive and the improvement was both cosmetic and functional.