OTA HDTV in Ottawa

 

I’m always a little amazed at how much people pay monthly for TV service. We ran for years with no TV at all, and all the money we “saved” I easily spent on DVDs (and more I’m sure). Several year ago we decided that some amount of TV wasn’t a bad thing, it also gave me a great excuse to build a PVR based on MythTV. After shopping around StarChoice (now ShawDirect) seemed like the right fit. The basic package was cost effective and gave us enough TV. I liked the fact that we got HDTV in the base package, and that meant high definition hockey games and special events like the Olympics.

ShawDirect has a great policy (pdf) that lets you schedule seasonal breaks in service. I’ve been using one of those to try out using over the air (OTA) TV as our only source. We haven’t really noticed the lack of TV, even through the Stanley Cup finals (but our team wasn’t in it).

To move to OTA I needed two things: 1) a PC capture device for HDTV and 2) a set top box to convert the signal for use with my projector. The PC side of things came along as a deal from Dell – the Hauppauge WinTV HVR-950Q was on sale one day ($54.99). This came along with a tiny little antenna which surprisingly pulled several stations. The projector has no HDTV tuner (unlike most HDTV flat panel sets) and so it was off to eBay to get a set top box. This was the first time I had used the “Make an Offer” option on eBay and I was quite pleased with the price we negotiated. The tv tuner is known by several different brands: Centronics ZAT 502 HD / RTC DTA1100HD / Digiwave DTV5000HD.

On the 2nd floor of the house I could easily pull in CBC to watch hockey using the dinky little antenna that came with the 950Q. To route the signal to the projector I needed to get a little creative and pull some RG6 from the attic to the basement, the MythTV box is also downstairs. In many situations almost anything will work as an antenna, and the simple bow-tie version I built with mostly stuff I had around already is pretty close to that.

My build was inspired by a write up I found using simple materials, the antenna I built is a Gray-Hoverman. I used a scrap of 1×3, some 14 gauge (2 conductor #14) electrical wire, some screws and fender washers. The only part I needed was a matching transformer. You can see the end result in the picture at the top of this post.

I have this antenna attic mounted, with 100ft of cable between it and the tv tuner. It works well, pulling in 5 HDTV stations all with little to no drop outs. I’d like to try to get PBS HD, but that may require a bigger antenna or an amplifier (a project for later).

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HP Color Laser Printer (CP1518NI) Refill

We print at home fairly infrequently, this meant that our inkjet printer ink cartridges were often gummed up or not working right when we did want to print. Moving to a laser printer was a good move, and the Samsung ML-2010 served us well, and was relatively easy to refill. The ability to refill the toner was one of my pre-requisites for a color laser printer – enter the HP CP1518ni, a reasonable cost but refill friendly printer.

It took about a year to drain the toner down to the level where it needed a refill. So it was off to eBay to look for a deal. In 2009, refill kits were available and were about $100 for all four colors. By 2011 the price had dropped to $50 for all four colors, including reset chips and the cutting tool. I bought mine from easycartridgerefill and had a good buying experience. At the top of this post is a picture of everything that was shipped in the box: toner, cutting tool, instructions, funnel tips, sealing tape, gloves, microfiber cloth, and reset chips.

Step 1RTFM. The instructions are 2 pages of fairly detailed instructions. Having refilled toner before I just skimmed them, that was a mistake. The photo above you can see I’ve used the hole cutting tool on the wrong part of the cartridge.

Step 2 – We need to use the hole cutting tool to make a hole in the correct part of the cartridge (see below). For your first refill you only need one hole, the instructions cover a 2nd area to make a hole if you need to empty the ‘wastebin’ – as this was the 1st time I was doing a refill I skipped that part having already made enough extra holes.

Step 3 – Empty the toner cartridge prior to refilling. The instructions warn that mixing old toner with new is likely to result in less optimal results.

Step 4Fill using the new toner. If you look at the picture of the yellow toner bottle, you can see quite clearly that it is no where near close to full. This picture was taken before I used any toner, the bottles are quite over-sized. You may need to gently swirl the bottle around to loosen the toner prior to trying to pour it. Use the entire bottle, this may take some effort and patience.

Step 5 – Seal the hole with the provided tape. The tape provided was simply metallic duct work tape that you can get at HomeDepot. Toner is a very, very fine dust – it will leak out any tiny hole or gap.

Step 6 – Now we need to swap the tiny chip that provides status on the cartridge to the printer. Sadly, this chip also prevents the printer from continuing to use a toner cartridge after you’ve passed the estimated number of pages. The original chip is pictured on the left, and the refill (reset) chip on the right. The chip swap is very easy.

That’s it, we’re done – install your newly filled cartridge and start printing.

A quick visit to the web-ui shows a full yellow cartridge with 1400 page capacity.

There are some folk who apparently run the toner down to nothing by buying new reset chips only and swapping those until they are low on toner. This could save you a little money in the long run – but at $50 for a full refill kit it is hard to argue that you need to be that frugal. Sadly, the reset chips are not reusable.

I had a few mishaps on the way to complete success..

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How To: Replace BlackBerry 9700 Keyboard

My brother in-law managed to lose the ALT key from his BlackBerry Bold 9700. He had been living with the lack of the key for some time as he didn’t realize how cheap it would be to replace it. I was happy to do the work simply because it let me take a new device apart.

Off to eBay for a new keyboard. There were many options. The prices ranged from $3 shipping included, $8 from a USA based source, or $12 within Canada (you can pay much more if you want). Lately I’ve had some trouble with shipments from China taking 60 days (or more) and my brother in-law was happy to pay a bit more to get the part sooner so we went with the $12 part.

A bit of searching located a good textual description of how to replace the keyboard on a 9700. The same thread references a youtube clip that provides a visual of the disassembly. You’ll need a Torx T5 and either slightly long fingernails, or some sort of plastic pry tool. Unfortunately my trusty micro-tip set from Lee Valley failed me here, the smallest Torx driver it has is a T6 – I cheated and used a small flathead from another micro screwdriver set which seemed to work ok.

The first step should be to remove the back and battery. You can leave the SIM and microSD cards in place.

Now we remove the bottom cover. This felt really tricky, but as we get further we’ll discover this is the easy part. Pry using your fingernail or the plastic pry tool under the “tops of the U-shape” on either side, releasing one side then the other.

You can see the two exposed screws. The lower one (in the picture) has a white dot on it, this is the tamper proof sticker. Some people have been able to slide this onto a razer blade / exacto knife and have been able to preserve the sticker. I tried, but it tore partially. In the end I just trashed it. Remove the two screws.

Removing the bezel was the tricky part. I found this youtube video to be the most instructive. You start by popping up the bottom lip (the part held down by the screws we took out). Then you need to free the clips on either side of the screen. These come free best by working outwards from the screen. Once the bottom half is free, then the top part pops / slides upwards on the phone. It took me a good 15 minutes of gentle prying and poking to determine how it came off, but once I had it sorted out it was quite easy to do again. Some folk do manage to ruin the bezel doing this procedure, so I’d suggest working as carefully as possible – you can always purchase a replacement if needed.

At this point swapping the keyboard is trivial. Re-assembly is quite simple. Again the bezel is the tricky part. Press the bezel down onto the phone 1st, then once it is in place you’ll want to squeeze the sides inwards to set the bezel correctly. Things should all click into place easily.

I ended up taking the phone apart and reassembling it twice. The second time was quite easy, once I had the feel for it. This is easier than taking an iPod apart, but harder than the Nokia 5310 mostly because of the bezel.

Things didn’t go entirely smoothly, the blame falls entirely on the replacement part.

One of the keys on the new keyboard simply fell out. This wasn’t a huge problem as a little super glue and the key was back in place. The keyboard is made up of the frame, a rubber membrane, and the keys. The membrane allows the keys to move within the frame. The key that fell out wasn’t properly bonded to the membrane. I’ve held onto the old keyboard in case more keys go missing. The original problem was a missing ALT key, but in that case the rubber membrane had torn away as well.

Above you can see the second problem, and what led me to disassemble the phone a 2nd time. The ALT key pictured above on the right is raised more than the keys around it. I thought that maybe there was something jammed under the key preventing it from lying flat. Upon inspection it appears that it is a manufacturing defect.

Certainly worth doing. While I had issues with the part quality, I suspect this was just bad luck. The slightly raised ALT key functions fine and really isn’t a big deal.